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The world of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is better than rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one up to see what each of the hoopla was with this drifter.

Instantly

WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

Simply How Much: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for easy learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning in front of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?A great deal of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in at a very reasonable price. Handling is nice as well once you get accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts a very wide variety of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for those that prefer to tinker, which means that this car should grow together with you for your skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts on the bottom for the front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these are used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find several left empty. They are often employed to control chassis flex, yet not using the stock top deck; an optional you must be purchased. The design is just like a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. All things are readily available and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.

? Apart from several interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll whilst the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.

? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious quantity of steering throw they may have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near to the edges in the chassis as possible. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I needed a great servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, where front and back belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To present the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, however i do remember an approach I used a while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a try of pearl white about the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the final result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!

About The TRACK

With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to do a picture shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and get some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering on the D4 is very amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look just a little funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the correct direction. This is certainly, partly, due to the awesome handling in the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to affect the angle from the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, and the Novak system is made for simply that. I did need to be just a little creative with the install of the system because of only a little space about the chassis, but overall it resolved great.

HANDLING

After driving hooked up touring cars for quite a while, it does require a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the proper way across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you have it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you feel as if you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of items to adjust. I actually enjoyed the car with all the kit setup plus it was just an issue of battery power pack or two before I used to be swinging the rear across the hairpins, round the carousel and to and fro through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap the battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.

DURABILITY

There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I have done, however, provide an trouble with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept from it, attempting to overcome the issue with driving, but soon had to RPM Team losi parts it in to actually take a look. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.